Host Amanda Lee McCarty (she/they) decodes and demystifies the fashion and retail industries, and takes on topics like consumerism, workers rights, personal style, and why fashion is a case study in capitalism gone awry.
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"If you wear clothes, you need to listen to Clotheshorse."  --Elise
"If you are human and live in the world, you need to listen to Clotheshorse." --Individually Wrapped

In part three of three, Amanda explores fast fashion 1.0 and 3.0 through the lens of her career:<ul>
<li>How the industry uses things like #Girlboss, feminist tees, and cause marketing to sell you more stuff.</li>
<li>When fast fashion becomes desperate and starts embracing greenwashing and new revenue streams like rental and resale.</li>
<li>WTF is the de minimus rule and how is it benefitting fast fashion 3.0?</li>
</ul>We'll be talking a lot about Shein and its peers. Additional reading: <a href="https://jezebel.com/after-months-of-reported-dysfunction-nasty-gal-lays-of-1757169251">"After Months of Reported Dysfunction, Nasty Gal Lays Off 19 Employees,"</a> Anna Merlan, Jezebel. <a href="https://jezebel.com/everything-really-hit-rock-bottom-how-nasty-gals-cultu-1711454805">"'Everything Really Hit Rock Bottom': How Nasty Gal's Culture Went Nasty,"</a> Anna Merlan, Jezebel. <a href="https://jezebel.com/how-modcloth-strayed-from-its-feminist-beginnings-and-e-1793561519">"How ModCloth Strayed From Its Feminist Beginnings and Ended Up a Walmart Property," </a>Anna Merlan, Jezebel. <a href="https://www.voguebusiness.com/consumers/after-reconsidering-free-returns-fashion-brands-get-creative#:~:text=Returns%20of%20online%20fashion%20orders,Yet%2C%20customer%20loyalty%20is%20fragile.">"After reconsidering free returns, fashion brands get creative,"</a> Maliha Shoaib, Vogue Business. <a href="https://www.thefashionlaw.com/urban-outfitters-cannot-escape-le-totes-trade-secret-claims-over-copycat-rental-venture-nuuly/">"Urban Outfitters Cannot Escape Le Tote’s Trade Secret Claims Over 'Copycat' Rental Biz,"</a> The Fashion Law. <a href="https://www.voanews.com/a/packages-from-china-are-surging-into-us-some-say-800-duty-free-limit-was-mistake/7152380.html#:~:text=Congress%20raised%20the%20U.S.%20government's,and%20685%20million%20last%20year.">"Packages From China Are Surging Into US; Some Say $800 Duty-Free Limit Was Mistake,"</a> Associated Press.<a href="https://www.npr.org/2023/06/30/1184974003/shein-influencers-china-factory-trip-backlash">"Shein invited influencers on an all-expenses-paid trip. Here's why people are livid,"</a> Vanessa Romo, NPR. <a href="https://www.businessinsider.com/shein-factory-workers-18-hour-shifts-paid-low-wages-report-2022-10">"Shein factory employees are working 18-hour days for pennies per garment and washing their hair on lunch breaks because they have so little time off, new report finds,"</a> Sarah Jackson, Business Insider. <a href="https://inews.co.uk/news/consumer/shein-fast-fashion-workers-paid-3p-18-hour-days-undercover-filming-china-1909073">"Shein: Fast-fashion workers paid 3p per garment for 18-hour days, undercover filming in China reveals,"</a> Rob Hastings, i news.If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  amanda@clotheshorse.world Or call the Clotheshorse hotline: 717.925.7417Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at <a href="https://www.clotheshorsepodcast.com/episodes/the-rental-sode">clotheshorsepodcast.com</a>Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:<a href="https://www.instagram.com/shiftastoria/">Shift Clothing</a>, out of beautiful Astoria, Oregon, with a focus on natural fibers, simple hardworking designs, and putting fat people first.  Discover more at <a href="https://shiftwheeler.com/">shiftwheeler.com</a> <a href="https://www.highenergyvintage.com/">​High Energy Vintage</a> is a fun and funky vintage shop located in Somerville, MA, just a few minutes away from downtown Boston. They offer a highly curated selection of bright and colorful clothing and accessories from the 1940s-1990s for people of all genders. Husband-and-wife duo Wiley & Jessamy handpick each piece for quality and style, with a focus on pieces that transcend trends and will find a home in your closet for many years to come! In addition to clothing, the shop also features a large selection of vintage vinyl and old school video games. Find them on instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/highenergyvintage/">@ highenergyvintage</a>, online at <a href="http://highenergyvintage.com/">highenergyvintage.com</a>, and at markets in and around Boston. The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/thepewterthimble/">@thepewterthimble</a>). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at <a href="http://thepewterthimble.com/">thepewterthimble.com</a>St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month.  New vintage is released every Thursday at <a href="https://wearstevens.com/">wearStEvens.com,</a> with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at <a href="https://www.instagram.com/wear_st.evens/">@wear_st.evens.</a> Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and accessories that are sustainable, gender fluid, size inclusive and high quality--made to last for years to come. Deco Denim is trying to change the way you think about buying clothes. Founder Sarah Mattes wants to empower people to ask important questions like, “Where was this made? Was this garment made ethically? Is this fabric made of plastic? Can this garment be upcycled and if not, can it be recycled?” Signup at <a href="https://decodenim.com/">decodenim.com </a>to receive $20 off your first purchase. They promise not to spam you and send out no more than 3 emails a month, with 2 of them surrounding education or a personal note from the Founder. Find them on Instagram as <a href="https://www.instagram.com/deco.denim/">@deco.denim.</a> Gabriela Antonas is a visual artist, an upcycler, and a fashion designer, but Gabriela Antonas is also a feminist micro business with radical ideals. She’s the one woman band, trying to help you understand, why slow fashion is what the earth needs. If you find your self in New Orleans, LA, you may buy her ready-to-wear upcycled garments in person at the store “Slow Down” (2855 Magazine St). <a href="https://www.slowdownnola.com/">Slow Down Nola</a> only sells vintage and slow fashion from local designers. Gabriela’s garments are guaranteed to be in stock in person, but they also have a website so you may support this women owned and run business from wherever you are! If you are interested in Gabriela making a one of a kind garment for you DM her on Instagram at<a href="https://www.instagram.com/slowfashiongabriela/"> @slowfashiongabriela</a> to book a consultation. Vagabond Vintage DTLV is a vintage clothing, accessories & decor reselling business based in Downtown Las Vegas. Not only do we sell in Las Vegas, but we are also located throughout resale markets in San Francisco as well as at a curated boutique called Lux and Ivy located in Indianapolis, Indiana. Jessica, the founder & owner of Vagabond Vintage DTLV, recently opened the first IRL location located in the Arts District of Downtown Las Vegas on August 5th. The shop has a strong emphasis on 60s & 70s garments, single stitch tee shirts & dreamy loungewear. Follow them on instagram, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/vagabondvintage.dtlv/">@vagabondvintage.dtlv </a>and keep an eye out for their website coming fall of 2022.Country Feedback is a mom & pop record shop in Tarboro, North Carolina. They specialize in used rock, country, and soul and offer affordable vintage clothing and housewares. Do you have used records you want to sell? Country Feedback wants to buy them! Find us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/countryfeedbackvintageandvinyl/">@countryfeedbackvintageandvinyl</a> or head downeast and visit our brick and mortar. All are welcome at this inclusive and family-friendly record shop in the country! Located in Whistler, Canada, Velvet Underground is a "velvet jungle" full of vintage and second-hand clothes, plants, a vegan cafe and lots of rad products from other small sustainable businesses. Our mission is to create a brand and community dedicated to promoting self-expression, as well as educating and inspiring a more sustainable and conscious lifestyle both for the people and the planet.Find us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/shop_velvetunderground/">@shop_velvetunderground</a> or online at<a href="http://www.shopvelvetunderground.com/"> www.shopvelvetunderground.com</a> <a href="https://www.selinasanders.com/">Selina Sanders</a>, a social impact brand that specializes in up-cycled clothing, using only reclaimed, vintage or thrifted materials: from tea towels, linens, blankets and quilts.  Sustainably crafted in Los Angeles, each piece is designed to last in one's closet for generations to come.  Maximum Style; Minimal Carbon Footprint. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/salthats/">Salt Hats:</a>  purveyors of truly sustainable hats. Hand blocked, sewn and embellished in Detroit, Michigan. Republica Unicornia Yarns: Hand-Dyed Yarn and notions for the color-obsessed. Made with love and some swearing in fabulous Atlanta, Georgia by Head Yarn Wench Kathleen. Get ready for rainbows with a side of Giving A Damn! Republica Unicornia is all about making your own magic using small-batch, responsibly sourced, hand-dyed yarns and thoughtfully made notions. Slow fashion all the way down and discover the joy of creating your very own beautiful hand knit, crocheted, or woven pieces. Find us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/republica_unicornia_yarns/">@republica_unicornia_yarns</a> and at <a href="https://republicaunicornia.com/">www.republicaunicornia.com.</a> Cute Little Ruin is an online shop dedicated to providing quality vintage and secondhand clothing, vinyl, and home items in a wide range of styles and price points.  If it’s ethical and legal, we try to find a new home for it!  Vintage style with progressive values.  Find us on Instagram at <a href="https://www.instagram.com/cutelittleruin/">@CuteLittleRuin.</a> Thumbprint is Detroit's only fair trade marketplace, located in the historic Eastern Market.  Our small business specializes in products handmade by empowered women in South Africa making a living wage creating things they love like hand painted candles and ceramics! We also carry a curated assortment of  sustainable/natural locally made goods. Thumbprint is a great gift destination for both the special people in your life and for yourself! Browse our online store at <a href="http://thumbprintdetroit.com/">thumbprintdetroit.com</a> and find us on instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/thumbprintdetroit/">@thumbprintdetroit</a>. <a href="https://www.picnicwear.com/">Picnicwear:</a>  a slow fashion brand, ethically made by hand from vintage and deadstock materials - most notably, vintage towels! Founder, Dani, has worked in the industry as a fashion designer for over 10 years, but started Picnicwear in response to her dissatisfaction with the industry's shortcomings. Picnicwear recently moved to rural North Carolina where all their clothing and accessories are now designed and cut, but the majority of their sewing is done by skilled garment workers in NYC. Their customers take comfort in knowing that all their sewists are paid well above NYC minimum wage. Picnicwear offers minimal waste and maximum authenticity: Future Vintage over future garbage. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/blank_cass/">Blank Cass,</a> or Blanket Coats by Cass, is focused on restoring, renewing, and reviving the history held within vintage and heirloom textiles. By embodying and transferring the love, craft, and energy that is original to each vintage textile into a new garment, I hope we can reteach ourselves to care for and mend what we have and make it last. Blank Cass lives on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/blank_cass/">@blank_cass</a> and a website will be launched soon at blankcass.com.

Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty

Episode 177: #Girlboss, Feminist Tees, & Other Desperate Acts, How fast fashion changed everything (part 3)

In part two of now THREE, Amanda explores fast fashion 1.0 and 2.0 through the lens of her career.  In this episode we will break down all of the acrobatics brands did to bring their customers more and more newness, faster and faster.  <ul>
<li>How fashion got faster with some help from social media and the normalization of shopping online.</li>
<li>How retailers began to commodify every holiday and occasion, creating products we didn't really need for every and any "event."</li>
<li>Why fast fashion retailers started to carry a lot of new things that weren't clothing.</li>
<li>How small online-only retailers like Modcloth, Nasty Gal, Lulu's, and Dolls Kill were able to offer even more steady newness without a huge in-house design team. Get ready to learn about the San Pedro Apparel Mart.</li>
<li>How fast fashion 2.0 brands like Fashion Nova and Boohoo could keep prices low while creating product faster than anyone else. </li>
</ul>Additional reading: <a href="https://www.barnardos.org.uk/news/barnardos-calls-people-think-pre-loved-buying-new-clothes">"Barnardo's calls for people to think 'pre-loved' before buying new clothes"</a> <a href="https://www.npr.org/sections/money/2017/04/18/524577372/episode-765-the-holiday-industrial-complex">Planet Money, Episode 765: The Holiday Industrial Complex</a> <a href="https://www.racked.com/2015/10/15/9540227/urban-outfitters-without-walls-athleisure">"Is Urban Outfitters Phasing Out Its Indie Athleisure Brand?,"</a> Adele Chapin, Racked. <a href="https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/from-the-san-pedro-wholesale-mart-honey-punch-rises-1202770103/">"From the San Pedro Wholesale Mart, a Brand Rises,"</a> Kari Hamanaka, WWD. <a href="https://www.economist.com/britain/2019/08/17/boohoos-business-model-is-as-cheeky-as-a-bikini-paired-with-chaps?utm_medium=cpc.adword.pd&utm_source=google&ppccampaignID=17210591673&ppcadID=&utm_campaign=a.22brand_pmax&utm_content=conversion.direct-response.anonymous&gclid=Cj0KCQjwx5qoBhDyARIsAPbMagB3mA1Bvk4SkbQR3B3JJZdY7wms1DRZQ_NQ-wfK9RUswJwIniyHZ44aAikSEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds">"Boohoo’s business model is as cheeky as a bikini paired with chaps,"</a> The Economist. <a href="https://www.businessinsider.com/the-billionaire-family-behind-fast-fashion-powerhouse-boohoo-2019-11">"Inside the lavish lives of the billionaire family behind Boohoo, the fast-fashion giant called out in an investigation into workers being paid just $4 an hour at suppliers' factories," </a>Mary Hanbury, Insider. <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2020/jul/04/boohoo-booms-leicester-garment-factories-linked-lockdown">"Boohoo booms as Leicester garment factories are linked to lockdown," </a>Archie Bland and Annie Kelly, The Guardian. <a href="https://www.ft.com/content/e427327e-5892-11e8-b8b2-d6ceb45fa9d0">"Dark factories: labour exploitation in Britain’s garment industry,"</a> Sarah O’Connor, Financial Times. <a href="https://www.cityam.com/boohoo-opens-first-owned-factory-in-new-chapter-amid-international-market-challenges/">"Boohoo opens first owned factory in ‘new chapter’ amid international market challenges,"</a> Emily Hawkins, City A.M. <a href="https://edited.com/blog/fashion-nova-success/">"Three graphs revealing how Fashion Nova disrupted the fashion industry,"</a> Edited. "<a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2019/12/16/business/fashion-nova-underpaid-workers.html">Fashion Nova’s Secret: Underpaid Workers in Los Angeles Factories,"</a> Natalie Kitroeff, The New York Times. <a href="https://www.ftc.gov/news-events/news/press-releases/2023/05/ftc-announces-refund-claims-process-fashion-nova-customers-affected-deceptive-review-practices">FTC Announces Refund Claims Process for Fashion Nova Customers Affected by Deceptive Review Practices</a>Special thanks to this episode's sponsors:<a href="https://www.mixedcolor.net/soft-work-details">Soft Work,</a> intuitive garment construction for beginners. Registration open until 9/22! <a href="https://oseiduro.com/?gad=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwib2mBhDWARIsAPZUn_l5QNDcBgZtVkEqXl2lCdUyod-6ST8P3D1thx3wAbeSuCjAq4cDGhcaAhL5EALw_wcB">Osei-Duro</a>! Find them on Instagram as <a href="https://www.instagram.com/oseiduro/">@oseiduro.</a> Use promo code CLOTHESHORSE20 to get 20% off your order! If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  amanda@clotheshorse.world Or call the Clotheshorse hotline: 717.925.7417Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at <a href="https://www.clotheshorsepodcast.com/episodes/the-rental-sode">clotheshorsepodcast.com</a>Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month.  New vintage is released every Thursday at <a href="https://wearstevens.com/">wearStEvens.com,</a> with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at <a href="https://www.instagram.com/wear_st.evens/">@wear_st.evens.</a> Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and accessories that are sustainable, gender fluid, size inclusive and high quality--made to last for years to come. Deco Denim is trying to change the way you think about buying clothes. Founder Sarah Mattes wants to empower people to ask important questions like, “Where was this made? Was this garment made ethically? Is this fabric made of plastic? Can this garment be upcycled and if not, can it be recycled?” Signup at <a href="https://decodenim.com/">decodenim.com </a>to receive $20 off your first purchase. They promise not to spam you and send out no more than 3 emails a month, with 2 of them surrounding education or a personal note from the Founder. Find them on Instagram as <a href="https://www.instagram.com/deco.denim/">@deco.denim.</a> Gabriela Antonas is a visual artist, an upcycler, and a fashion designer, but Gabriela Antonas is also a feminist micro business with radical ideals. She’s the one woman band, trying to help you understand, why slow fashion is what the earth needs. If you find your self in New Orleans, LA, you may buy her ready-to-wear upcycled garments in person at the store “Slow Down” (2855 Magazine St). <a href="https://www.slowdownnola.com/">Slow Down Nola</a> only sells vintage and slow fashion from local designers. Gabriela’s garments are guaranteed to be in stock in person, but they also have a website so you may support this women owned and run business from wherever you are! If you are interested in Gabriela making a one of a kind garment for you DM her on Instagram at<a href="https://www.instagram.com/slowfashiongabriela/"> @slowfashiongabriela</a> to book a consultation. Vagabond Vintage DTLV is a vintage clothing, accessories & decor reselling business based in Downtown Las Vegas. Not only do we sell in Las Vegas, but we are also located throughout resale markets in San Francisco as well as at a curated boutique called Lux and Ivy located in Indianapolis, Indiana. Jessica, the founder & owner of Vagabond Vintage DTLV, recently opened the first IRL location located in the Arts District of Downtown Las Vegas on August 5th. The shop has a strong emphasis on 60s & 70s garments, single stitch tee shirts & dreamy loungewear. Follow them on instagram, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/vagabondvintage.dtlv/">@vagabondvintage.dtlv </a>and keep an eye out for their website coming fall of 2022.Country Feedback is a mom & pop record shop in Tarboro, North Carolina. They specialize in used rock, country, and soul and offer affordable vintage clothing and housewares. Do you have used records you want to sell? Country Feedback wants to buy them! Find us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/countryfeedbackvintageandvinyl/">@countryfeedbackvintageandvinyl</a> or head downeast and visit our brick and mortar. All are welcome at this inclusive and family-friendly record shop in the country! Located in Whistler, Canada, Velvet Underground is a "velvet jungle" full of vintage and second-hand clothes, plants, a vegan cafe and lots of rad products from other small sustainable businesses. Our mission is to create a brand and community dedicated to promoting self-expression, as well as educating and inspiring a more sustainable and conscious lifestyle both for the people and the planet.Find us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/shop_velvetunderground/">@shop_velvetunderground</a> or online at<a href="http://www.shopvelvetunderground.com/"> www.shopvelvetunderground.com</a> <a href="https://www.selinasanders.com/">Selina Sanders</a>, a social impact brand that specializes in up-cycled clothing, using only reclaimed, vintage or thrifted materials: from tea towels, linens, blankets and quilts.  Sustainably crafted in Los Angeles, each piece is designed to last in one's closet for generations to come.  Maximum Style; Minimal Carbon Footprint. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/salthats/">Salt Hats:</a>  purveyors of truly sustainable hats. Hand blocked, sewn and embellished in Detroit, Michigan. Republica Unicornia Yarns: Hand-Dyed Yarn and notions for the color-obsessed. Made with love and some swearing in fabulous Atlanta, Georgia by Head Yarn Wench Kathleen. Get ready for rainbows with a side of Giving A Damn! Republica Unicornia is all about making your own magic using small-batch, responsibly sourced, hand-dyed yarns and thoughtfully made notions. Slow fashion all the way down and discover the joy of creating your very own beautiful hand knit, crocheted, or woven pieces. Find us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/republica_unicornia_yarns/">@republica_unicornia_yarns</a> and at <a href="https://republicaunicornia.com/">www.republicaunicornia.com.</a> Cute Little Ruin is an online shop dedicated to providing quality vintage and secondhand clothing, vinyl, and home items in a wide range of styles and price points.  If it’s ethical and legal, we try to find a new home for it!  Vintage style with progressive values.  Find us on Instagram at <a href="https://www.instagram.com/cutelittleruin/">@CuteLittleRuin.</a> Thumbprint is Detroit's only fair trade marketplace, located in the historic Eastern Market.  Our small business specializes in products handmade by empowered women in South Africa making a living wage creating things they love like hand painted candles and ceramics! We also carry a curated assortment of  sustainable/natural locally made goods. Thumbprint is a great gift destination for both the special people in your life and for yourself! Browse our online store at <a href="http://thumbprintdetroit.com/">thumbprintdetroit.com</a> and find us on instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/thumbprintdetroit/">@thumbprintdetroit</a>. <a href="https://www.picnicwear.com/">Picnicwear:</a>  a slow fashion brand, ethically made by hand from vintage and deadstock materials - most notably, vintage towels! Founder, Dani, has worked in the industry as a fashion designer for over 10 years, but started Picnicwear in response to her dissatisfaction with the industry's shortcomings. Picnicwear recently moved to rural North Carolina where all their clothing and accessories are now designed and cut, but the majority of their sewing is done by skilled garment workers in NYC. Their customers take comfort in knowing that all their sewists are paid well above NYC minimum wage. Picnicwear offers minimal waste and maximum authenticity: Future Vintage over future garbage.<a href="https://www.instagram.com/shiftastoria/"> Shift Clothing</a>, out of beautiful Astoria, Oregon, with a focus on natural fibers, simple hardworking designs, and putting fat people first.  Discover more at <a href="https://shiftwheeler.com/">shiftwheeler.com</a> <a href="https://www.highenergyvintage.com/">​High Energy Vintage</a> is a fun and funky vintage shop located in Somerville, MA, just a few minutes away from downtown Boston. They offer a highly curated selection of bright and colorful clothing and accessories from the 1940s-1990s for people of all genders. Husband-and-wife duo Wiley & Jessamy handpick each piece for quality and style, with a focus on pieces that transcend trends and will find a home in your closet for many years to come! In addition to clothing, the shop also features a large selection of vintage vinyl and old school video games. Find them on instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/highenergyvintage/">@ highenergyvintage</a>, online at <a href="http://highenergyvintage.com/">highenergyvintage.com</a>, and at markets in and around Boston. The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/thepewterthimble/">@thepewterthimble</a>). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at <a href="http://thepewterthimble.com/">thepewterthimble.com</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/blank_cass/">Blank Cass,</a> or Blanket Coats by Cass, is focused on restoring, renewing, and reviving the history held within vintage and heirloom textiles. By embodying and transferring the love, craft, and energy that is original to each vintage textile into a new garment, I hope we can reteach ourselves to care for and mend what we have and make it last. Blank Cass lives on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/blank_cass/">@blank_cass</a> and a website will be launched soon at blankcass.com.

Episode 176: Fast, Cheap, & Always Something New, How fast fashion changed everything (part 2)

In part one of two, Amanda explores the rise of fast fashion 1.0 through the lens of her career as a buyer:<ul>
<li>How economic and social factors helped it blow up in the 2000s (and why millennials are "The Fast Fashion Generation").</li>
<li>Its impact on workers throughout the world.</li>
<li>How it altered both consumer behavior and our perception of price and value.</li>
<li>The changes brands made in order to remain highly profitable while selling everything at a lower price.</li>
</ul>And we'll learn who coined the term "fast fashion."Additional reading: <a href="https://www.voguebusiness.com/fashion/debunking-the-dream-is-working-in-fashion-going-out-of-style-success-survey?utm_campaign=likeshopme&amp;utm_medium=instagram&amp;utm_source=dash%20hudson&amp;utm_content=www.instagram.com/p/Cw0BYG9tzLE/">"Is working in fashion going out of style?," </a>BELLA WEBB AND MALIHA SHOAIB, Vogue Business. <a href="https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/sep/02/academic-exposing-ugly-reality-high-fashion-giulia-mensitieri">"Chanel shoes, but no salary: how one woman exposed the scandal of the French fashion industry,"</a> Stefanie Marsh, The Guardian. <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/1989/12/31/style/fashion-two-new-stores-that-cruise-fashion-s-fast-lane.html">"Fashion; Two New Stores That Cruise Fashion's Fast Lane,"</a> Anne-Marie Schiro, The New York Times, 1989. <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/1998/03/13/news/swedish-outlet-chain-gambles-it-can-change-consumer-tastes-will-cheap.html?searchResultPosition=4">"Swedish Outlet Chain Gambles It Can Change Consumer Tastes : Will Cheap Chic Win Over Stylish French?,</a>" Joseph Fitchett, The New York Times (1988). <a href="https://www.nytimes.com/2000/04/11/style/cheap-chic-draws-crowds-on-5th-ave.html?searchResultPosition=6">"'Cheap Chic' Draws Crowds on 5th Ave," </a>Ruth Ferla, The New York Times (2000).Special thanks to this episode's sponsor: <a href="https://www.mixedcolor.net/soft-work-details">Soft Work,</a> intuitive garment construction for beginners. Registration open until 9/22!Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at <a href="https://www.clotheshorsepodcast.com/episodes/the-rental-sode">clotheshorsepodcast.com</a> Learn more about this month's audio essay opportunity <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CwV5xDluF-i/?img_index=1">here.</a>Register for <a href="https://smallbizbigpic.com/product-category/classes/">Small Biz Big Pic!</a>Want to support Amanda's work on Clotheshorse? Learn more at <a href="https://www.patreon.com/clotheshorsepodcast">patreon.com/clotheshorsepodcast</a>If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  amanda@clotheshorse.world Or call the Clotheshorse hotline: 717.925.7417 Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month.  New vintage is released every Thursday at <a href="https://wearstevens.com/">wearStEvens.com,</a> with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at <a href="https://www.instagram.com/wear_st.evens/">@wear_st.evens.</a> Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and accessories that are sustainable, gender fluid, size inclusive and high quality--made to last for years to come. Deco Denim is trying to change the way you think about buying clothes. Founder Sarah Mattes wants to empower people to ask important questions like, “Where was this made? Was this garment made ethically? Is this fabric made of plastic? Can this garment be upcycled and if not, can it be recycled?” Signup at <a href="https://decodenim.com/">decodenim.com </a>to receive $20 off your first purchase. They promise not to spam you and send out no more than 3 emails a month, with 2 of them surrounding education or a personal note from the Founder. Find them on Instagram as <a href="https://www.instagram.com/deco.denim/">@deco.denim.</a> Gabriela Antonas is a visual artist, an upcycler, and a fashion designer, but Gabriela Antonas is also a feminist micro business with radical ideals. She’s the one woman band, trying to help you understand, why slow fashion is what the earth needs. If you find your self in New Orleans, LA, you may buy her ready-to-wear upcycled garments in person at the store “Slow Down” (2855 Magazine St). <a href="https://www.slowdownnola.com/">Slow Down Nola</a> only sells vintage and slow fashion from local designers. Gabriela’s garments are guaranteed to be in stock in person, but they also have a website so you may support this women owned and run business from wherever you are! If you are interested in Gabriela making a one of a kind garment for you DM her on Instagram at<a href="https://www.instagram.com/slowfashiongabriela/"> @slowfashiongabriela</a> to book a consultation. Vagabond Vintage DTLV is a vintage clothing, accessories &amp; decor reselling business based in Downtown Las Vegas. Not only do we sell in Las Vegas, but we are also located throughout resale markets in San Francisco as well as at a curated boutique called Lux and Ivy located in Indianapolis, Indiana. Jessica, the founder &amp; owner of Vagabond Vintage DTLV, recently opened the first IRL location located in the Arts District of Downtown Las Vegas on August 5th. The shop has a strong emphasis on 60s &amp; 70s garments, single stitch tee shirts &amp; dreamy loungewear. Follow them on instagram, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/vagabondvintage.dtlv/">@vagabondvintage.dtlv </a>and keep an eye out for their website coming fall of 2022.Country Feedback is a mom &amp; pop record shop in Tarboro, North Carolina. They specialize in used rock, country, and soul and offer affordable vintage clothing and housewares. Do you have used records you want to sell? Country Feedback wants to buy them! Find us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/countryfeedbackvintageandvinyl/">@countryfeedbackvintageandvinyl</a> or head downeast and visit our brick and mortar. All are welcome at this inclusive and family-friendly record shop in the country! Located in Whistler, Canada, Velvet Underground is a "velvet jungle" full of vintage and second-hand clothes, plants, a vegan cafe and lots of rad products from other small sustainable businesses. Our mission is to create a brand and community dedicated to promoting self-expression, as well as educating and inspiring a more sustainable and conscious lifestyle both for the people and the planet.Find us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/shop_velvetunderground/">@shop_velvetunderground</a> or online at<a href="http://www.shopvelvetunderground.com/"> www.shopvelvetunderground.com</a> <a href="https://www.selinasanders.com/">Selina Sanders</a>, a social impact brand that specializes in up-cycled clothing, using only reclaimed, vintage or thrifted materials: from tea towels, linens, blankets and quilts.  Sustainably crafted in Los Angeles, each piece is designed to last in one's closet for generations to come.  Maximum Style; Minimal Carbon Footprint. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/salthats/">Salt Hats:</a>  purveyors of truly sustainable hats. Hand blocked, sewn and embellished in Detroit, Michigan. Republica Unicornia Yarns: Hand-Dyed Yarn and notions for the color-obsessed. Made with love and some swearing in fabulous Atlanta, Georgia by Head Yarn Wench Kathleen. Get ready for rainbows with a side of Giving A Damn! Republica Unicornia is all about making your own magic using small-batch, responsibly sourced, hand-dyed yarns and thoughtfully made notions. Slow fashion all the way down and discover the joy of creating your very own beautiful hand knit, crocheted, or woven pieces. Find us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/republica_unicornia_yarns/">@republica_unicornia_yarns</a> and at <a href="https://republicaunicornia.com/">www.republicaunicornia.com.</a> Cute Little Ruin is an online shop dedicated to providing quality vintage and secondhand clothing, vinyl, and home items in a wide range of styles and price points.  If it’s ethical and legal, we try to find a new home for it!  Vintage style with progressive values.  Find us on Instagram at <a href="https://www.instagram.com/cutelittleruin/">@CuteLittleRuin.</a> Thumbprint is Detroit's only fair trade marketplace, located in the historic Eastern Market.  Our small business specializes in products handmade by empowered women in South Africa making a living wage creating things they love like hand painted candles and ceramics! We also carry a curated assortment of  sustainable/natural locally made goods. Thumbprint is a great gift destination for both the special people in your life and for yourself! Browse our online store at <a href="http://thumbprintdetroit.com/">thumbprintdetroit.com</a> and find us on instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/thumbprintdetroit/">@thumbprintdetroit</a>. <a href="https://www.picnicwear.com/">Picnicwear:</a>  a slow fashion brand, ethically made by hand from vintage and deadstock materials - most notably, vintage towels! Founder, Dani, has worked in the industry as a fashion designer for over 10 years, but started Picnicwear in response to her dissatisfaction with the industry's shortcomings. Picnicwear recently moved to rural North Carolina where all their clothing and accessories are now designed and cut, but the majority of their sewing is done by skilled garment workers in NYC. Their customers take comfort in knowing that all their sewists are paid well above NYC minimum wage. Picnicwear offers minimal waste and maximum authenticity: Future Vintage over future garbage.<a href="https://www.instagram.com/shiftastoria/"> Shift Clothing</a>, out of beautiful Astoria, Oregon, with a focus on natural fibers, simple hardworking designs, and putting fat people first.  Discover more at <a href="https://shiftwheeler.com/">shiftwheeler.com</a> <a href="https://www.highenergyvintage.com/">​High Energy Vintage</a> is a fun and funky vintage shop located in Somerville, MA, just a few minutes away from downtown Boston. They offer a highly curated selection of bright and colorful clothing and accessories from the 1940s-1990s for people of all genders. Husband-and-wife duo Wiley &amp; Jessamy handpick each piece for quality and style, with a focus on pieces that transcend trends and will find a home in your closet for many years to come! In addition to clothing, the shop also features a large selection of vintage vinyl and old school video games. Find them on instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/highenergyvintage/">@ highenergyvintage</a>, online at <a href="http://highenergyvintage.com/">highenergyvintage.com</a>, and at markets in and around Boston. The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/thepewterthimble/">@thepewterthimble</a>). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at <a href="http://thepewterthimble.com/">thepewterthimble.com</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/blank_cass/">Blank Cass,</a> or Blanket Coats by Cass, is focused on restoring, renewing, and reviving the history held within vintage and heirloom textiles. By embodying and transferring the love, craft, and energy that is original to each vintage textile into a new garment, I hope we can reteach ourselves to care for and mend what we have and make it last. Blank Cass lives on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/blank_cass/">@blank_cass</a> and a website will be launched soon at blankcass.com.

Episode 175: "Lucky To Be Here," How fast fashion changed everything (part 1)

Amanda is joined by Zoe Edwards, host of Check Your Thread.  This is part two of their conversation. Zoe gives us advice on how we can sew more sustainably.  And Amanda explains "fast fashion 3.0" and Cider.Get connected with Zoe: <a href="https://checkyourthread.com/">Check Your Thread</a> <a href="https://checkyourthread.com/product/introduction-to-garment-fabrics/">Introduction to Garment Fabrics</a> (by Zoe) <a href="https://sozowhatdoyouknow.blogspot.com/">Zoe's personal sewing blog</a>Instagram: <a href="https://www.instagram.com/checkyourthread/">@checkyourthread</a>Additional reading: <a href="https://thetab.com/uk/2022/01/27/how-cider-became-tiktoks-go-to-brand-despite-cultural-appropriation-and-stolen-designs-237684">"How Cider became TikTok’s go to brand, despite ‘cultural appropriation’ and ‘stolen’ designs,"</a> Lydia Venn, The Tab. <a href="https://jingdaily.com/dont-bother-looking-for-the-next-shein/">"Don’t Bother Looking for the Next Shein," </a>Avery Booker, Jing Daily. <a href="https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/retail/the-search-for-the-next-shein/">"The Search for the Next Shein,"</a> Chavie Lieber, Business of Fashion. <a href="https://www.theverge.com/22905293/knitwear-knockoffs-designers-fast-fashion">"Knitwear is slow, the knockoffs come fast,"</a>  Mansee Khurana, The Verge. <a href="https://www.businessinsider.com/gen-zers-fashion-brand-cider-shein-andreessen-horowitz-2022-8">"Gen Zers are in love with Cider, an Andreessen Horowitz-backed competitor to Shein,"</a> Lakshmi Varanasi, Insider. <a href="https://techcrunch.com/2022/08/02/shein-a16z-challenger-cider-growth/">"a16z-backed Shein challenger Cider is growing rapidly,"</a> Rita Liao, Tech Crunch.Special thanks to this episode's sponsors:<a href="https://www.mixedcolor.net/soft-work-details">Soft Work,</a> intuitive garment construction for beginners. Registration open until 9/22! <a href="https://oseiduro.com/?gad=1&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwib2mBhDWARIsAPZUn_l5QNDcBgZtVkEqXl2lCdUyod-6ST8P3D1thx3wAbeSuCjAq4cDGhcaAhL5EALw_wcB">Osei-Duro</a>! Find them on Instagram as <a href="https://www.instagram.com/oseiduro/">@oseiduro.</a> Use promo code CLOTHESHORSE20 to get 20% off your order!Find this episode's transcript (and so much more) at <a href="https://www.clotheshorsepodcast.com/episodes/the-rental-sode">clotheshorsepodcast.com</a> Learn more about this month's audio essay opportunity <a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/CwV5xDluF-i/?img_index=1">here.</a>Register for <a href="https://smallbizbigpic.com/product-category/classes/">Small Biz Big Pic!</a>Want to support Amanda's work on Clotheshorse? Learn more at <a href="https://www.patreon.com/clotheshorsepodcast">patreon.com/clotheshorsepodcast</a>If you want to share your opinion/additional thoughts on the subjects we cover in each episode, feel free to email, whether it’s a typed out message or an audio recording:  amanda@clotheshorse.world Or call the Clotheshorse hotline: 717.925.7417 Clotheshorse is brought to you with support from the following sustainable small businesses:St. Evens is an NYC-based vintage shop that is dedicated to bringing you those special pieces you’ll reach for again and again. More than just a store, St. Evens is dedicated to sharing the stories and history behind the garments. 10% of all sales are donated to a different charitable organization each month.  New vintage is released every Thursday at <a href="https://wearstevens.com/">wearStEvens.com,</a> with previews of new pieces and more brought to you on Instagram at <a href="https://www.instagram.com/wear_st.evens/">@wear_st.evens.</a> Deco Denim is a startup based out of San Francisco, selling clothing and accessories that are sustainable, gender fluid, size inclusive and high quality--made to last for years to come. Deco Denim is trying to change the way you think about buying clothes. Founder Sarah Mattes wants to empower people to ask important questions like, “Where was this made? Was this garment made ethically? Is this fabric made of plastic? Can this garment be upcycled and if not, can it be recycled?” Signup at <a href="https://decodenim.com/">decodenim.com </a>to receive $20 off your first purchase. They promise not to spam you and send out no more than 3 emails a month, with 2 of them surrounding education or a personal note from the Founder. Find them on Instagram as <a href="https://www.instagram.com/deco.denim/">@deco.denim.</a> Gabriela Antonas is a visual artist, an upcycler, and a fashion designer, but Gabriela Antonas is also a feminist micro business with radical ideals. She’s the one woman band, trying to help you understand, why slow fashion is what the earth needs. If you find your self in New Orleans, LA, you may buy her ready-to-wear upcycled garments in person at the store “Slow Down” (2855 Magazine St). <a href="https://www.slowdownnola.com/">Slow Down Nola</a> only sells vintage and slow fashion from local designers. Gabriela’s garments are guaranteed to be in stock in person, but they also have a website so you may support this women owned and run business from wherever you are! If you are interested in Gabriela making a one of a kind garment for you DM her on Instagram at<a href="https://www.instagram.com/slowfashiongabriela/"> @slowfashiongabriela</a> to book a consultation. Vagabond Vintage DTLV is a vintage clothing, accessories &amp; decor reselling business based in Downtown Las Vegas. Not only do we sell in Las Vegas, but we are also located throughout resale markets in San Francisco as well as at a curated boutique called Lux and Ivy located in Indianapolis, Indiana. Jessica, the founder &amp; owner of Vagabond Vintage DTLV, recently opened the first IRL location located in the Arts District of Downtown Las Vegas on August 5th. The shop has a strong emphasis on 60s &amp; 70s garments, single stitch tee shirts &amp; dreamy loungewear. Follow them on instagram, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/vagabondvintage.dtlv/">@vagabondvintage.dtlv </a>and keep an eye out for their website coming fall of 2022.Country Feedback is a mom &amp; pop record shop in Tarboro, North Carolina. They specialize in used rock, country, and soul and offer affordable vintage clothing and housewares. Do you have used records you want to sell? Country Feedback wants to buy them! Find us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/countryfeedbackvintageandvinyl/">@countryfeedbackvintageandvinyl</a> or head downeast and visit our brick and mortar. All are welcome at this inclusive and family-friendly record shop in the country! Located in Whistler, Canada, Velvet Underground is a "velvet jungle" full of vintage and second-hand clothes, plants, a vegan cafe and lots of rad products from other small sustainable businesses. Our mission is to create a brand and community dedicated to promoting self-expression, as well as educating and inspiring a more sustainable and conscious lifestyle both for the people and the planet.Find us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/shop_velvetunderground/">@shop_velvetunderground</a> or online at<a href="http://www.shopvelvetunderground.com/"> www.shopvelvetunderground.com</a> <a href="https://www.selinasanders.com/">Selina Sanders</a>, a social impact brand that specializes in up-cycled clothing, using only reclaimed, vintage or thrifted materials: from tea towels, linens, blankets and quilts.  Sustainably crafted in Los Angeles, each piece is designed to last in one's closet for generations to come.  Maximum Style; Minimal Carbon Footprint. <a href="https://www.instagram.com/salthats/">Salt Hats:</a>  purveyors of truly sustainable hats. Hand blocked, sewn and embellished in Detroit, Michigan. Republica Unicornia Yarns: Hand-Dyed Yarn and notions for the color-obsessed. Made with love and some swearing in fabulous Atlanta, Georgia by Head Yarn Wench Kathleen. Get ready for rainbows with a side of Giving A Damn! Republica Unicornia is all about making your own magic using small-batch, responsibly sourced, hand-dyed yarns and thoughtfully made notions. Slow fashion all the way down and discover the joy of creating your very own beautiful hand knit, crocheted, or woven pieces. Find us on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/republica_unicornia_yarns/">@republica_unicornia_yarns</a> and at <a href="https://republicaunicornia.com/">www.republicaunicornia.com.</a> Cute Little Ruin is an online shop dedicated to providing quality vintage and secondhand clothing, vinyl, and home items in a wide range of styles and price points.  If it’s ethical and legal, we try to find a new home for it!  Vintage style with progressive values.  Find us on Instagram at <a href="https://www.instagram.com/cutelittleruin/">@CuteLittleRuin.</a> Thumbprint is Detroit's only fair trade marketplace, located in the historic Eastern Market.  Our small business specializes in products handmade by empowered women in South Africa making a living wage creating things they love like hand painted candles and ceramics! We also carry a curated assortment of  sustainable/natural locally made goods. Thumbprint is a great gift destination for both the special people in your life and for yourself! Browse our online store at <a href="http://thumbprintdetroit.com/">thumbprintdetroit.com</a> and find us on instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/thumbprintdetroit/">@thumbprintdetroit</a>. <a href="https://www.picnicwear.com/">Picnicwear:</a>  a slow fashion brand, ethically made by hand from vintage and deadstock materials - most notably, vintage towels! Founder, Dani, has worked in the industry as a fashion designer for over 10 years, but started Picnicwear in response to her dissatisfaction with the industry's shortcomings. Picnicwear recently moved to rural North Carolina where all their clothing and accessories are now designed and cut, but the majority of their sewing is done by skilled garment workers in NYC. Their customers take comfort in knowing that all their sewists are paid well above NYC minimum wage. Picnicwear offers minimal waste and maximum authenticity: Future Vintage over future garbage.<a href="https://www.instagram.com/shiftastoria/"> Shift Clothing</a>, out of beautiful Astoria, Oregon, with a focus on natural fibers, simple hardworking designs, and putting fat people first.  Discover more at <a href="https://shiftwheeler.com/">shiftwheeler.com</a> <a href="https://www.highenergyvintage.com/">​High Energy Vintage</a> is a fun and funky vintage shop located in Somerville, MA, just a few minutes away from downtown Boston. They offer a highly curated selection of bright and colorful clothing and accessories from the 1940s-1990s for people of all genders. Husband-and-wife duo Wiley &amp; Jessamy handpick each piece for quality and style, with a focus on pieces that transcend trends and will find a home in your closet for many years to come! In addition to clothing, the shop also features a large selection of vintage vinyl and old school video games. Find them on instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/highenergyvintage/">@ highenergyvintage</a>, online at <a href="http://highenergyvintage.com/">highenergyvintage.com</a>, and at markets in and around Boston. The Pewter Thimble Is there a little bit of Italy in your soul? Are you an enthusiast of pre-loved decor and accessories? Bring vintage Italian style — and history — into your space with The Pewter Thimble (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/thepewterthimble/">@thepewterthimble</a>). We source useful and beautiful things, and mend them where needed. We also find gorgeous illustrations, and make them print-worthy. Tarot cards, tea towels and handpicked treasures, available to you from the comfort of your own home. Responsibly sourced from across Rome, lovingly renewed by fairly paid artists and artisans, with something for every budget. Discover more at <a href="http://thepewterthimble.com/">thepewterthimble.com</a> <a href="https://www.instagram.com/blank_cass/">Blank Cass,</a> or Blanket Coats by Cass, is focused on restoring, renewing, and reviving the history held within vintage and heirloom textiles. By embodying and transferring the love, craft, and energy that is original to each vintage textile into a new garment, I hope we can reteach ourselves to care for and mend what we have and make it last. Blank Cass lives on Instagram <a href="https://www.instagram.com/blank_cass/">@blank_cass</a> and a website will be launched soon at blankcass.com.

Amanda Lee McCarty

Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty by Amanda Lee McCarty

Episodes